The following is an excerpt from the Eldred Rock Lightstation Historic Structures Report, written in January 2020.
HISTORY OF THE PROPERTY
A. Historic Events Associated with Eldred Rock Light Station
Eldred Rock was named by naturalist Marcus Baker, who was hired every year from 1872-1888 to record topographic and hydrographical data in the newly acquired U.S. territory of Alaska. Baker, who co-founded the National Geographic Society, named the two-acre island after his wife, Sarah Eldred.
With the discovery of Canadian Klondike Gold in 1896, the population of Skagway at the northernmost point of Lynn Canal skyrocketed to 30,000, mostly American prospectors willing to risk travelling the Chilkoot Trail into the Yukon. With the massive rise in ship traffic bringing passengers and goods north, and gold and prospectors south, it became clear that more aids to navigation were necessary.
Eldred Rock, 55 miles north of the major port of Juneau and approximately 35 miles south of Skagway, became the site of a major maritime tragedy in 1898. The steamship Clara Nevada, formerly the United States Coast Survey Schooner Hassler, sailed from Seattle on January 26, 1898 with a crew of 40 and 165 passengers. Bound for Skagway and the Klondike Gold fields, the three masted steel hulled schooner had been refurnished and overhauled for her Alaska trade and commanded by Captain C. H. Lewis.
On the afternoon of February 5, heading south into a winter storm, the Clara Nevada departed Skagway with between 40 and 60 passengers, potentially up to 800 pounds of Klondike Gold, and possibly an illegal load of dynamite. Just over 30 miles into her journey, the ship ran aground on an uncharted rock several hundred yards north of Eldred Rock. Witnesses from nearby Seward City reported seeing an explosion and fire, and it was assumed all lives were lost. Mysteriously, however, a dingy from the Clara Nevada was supposedly discovered on the mainland and the Captain and a fireman were later reported as being alive.
For more than two decades following the historic Klondike Gold Rush of 1897-98, the most important summer trade route to interior Alaska was through Canadian territory. Steamships from major Pacific Coast ports sailed through the Inside Passage to Skagway, where freight was then shipped over the White Pass & Yukon Railway to Whitehorse, Canada, the head of navigation on the Yukon River. Supplies, mining equipment, etc., were then loaded onto steamers traveling down the Yukon River to interior Alaska. Until the completion of the Alaska railroad in 1923, linking interior Alaska with Seward, an ice-free port, most commerce between interior Alaska and the contiguous American states was thus forced to flow through foreign territory.
Alaskan Territorial Governors and the US Lighthouse Board had been calling for aids to navigation in Alaska as early as 1899. The Board recommended $300,000 for light stations and listed eight sites in Southeast Alaskan waters. Congress did not act until June 6, 1900 when it approved $100,000. With these funds the Thirteenth Lighthouse District dispatched an inspector and engineer to identify and survey sites for potential light stations. Light station facilities were designed and construction began in 1901 with Sentinel Island and Southeast Five Finger Island. The Lighthouse Board approved construction of Eldred Rock in May of 1905, planning for hired labor to complete it before winter. The harsh winter weather stalled construction, however, and it was not completed and lit until June 1, 1906. On May 14, 1906, a letter was sent from the office of the district inspector to Nils Peter Adamson, assistant keeper of Desdamona Sands Lighthouse on the Columbia River, directing him “to proceed to Eldred Rock, Alaska, Light Station and take charge of that station as Keeper.” Head Keeper Adamson reached the station in time, and with his two assistants, Gust Hall and John Anderson, took up residence on the tiny island. Eldred Rock was the last of twelve lighthouses in Alaska built between 1902 and 1906.
B. Historical and Architectural Significance
Not only is Eldred Rock the oldest original Alaskan Lighthouse building, it is the only remaining octagonal frame lighthouse built between 1902 and 1905. While many of the other lighthouses in Alaska were rebuilt into reinforced concrete towers in the 1930’s, Eldred Rock was the only station not rebuilt because of its solid concrete base.
The Eldred Rock lighthouse was the second structure of its kind in Alaska which combined keepers’ quarters with light and fog-signal apparatus. The light and fog-signal building was a pyramidal-roofed, two-story, octagonal structure on concrete foundations. The height of the structure was 56 feet; its diameter, 52 feet. The lower story of the structure was concrete; the upper, wood. Fog-signal apparatus was located on the first story; and keepers’ quarters, on the second floor. The structure was painted white with a black roof, later becoming a red roof. From the apex of the lighthouse structure projected a wooden, octagonal, gray tower and lantern with square glass panes. Displayed 91 feet above mean high water, the fourth-order light (2,100 c.p.) was visible about 15 miles. The fog-signal was a first-class, automatic, compressed-air siren. In 1939 a radiotelephone was also installed.
Other structures on Eldred Rock included a boathouse, tramway, and derrick. Located about 150 feet northerly of the lighthouse, the boathouse was a rectangular, one-story, wooden structure on concrete foundations. The tramway linked the boathouse and lighthouse. Through the years additional structures were erected at the light station. During the 1920’s and 1930’s several wooden, rectangular, one-story buildings were constructed about mid-distance between the lighthouse and boathouse; these structures were probably used as storehouses and repair shops. Later, one or two of these buildings were destroyed or removed from Eldred Rock. However, one was retained, and an additional built onto it. When electrical generators were provided at the station in the late 1930’s, a radio tower, fuel cylinders, and post lamps were added to the station. In more recent times, a landing pad for helicopters was constructed at short distance northerly of the boathouse. All in all, these small structures do not detract from the historical integrity of the lighthouse. The lighthouse, tramway, and boathouse remain in their original sites, and have not been altered.
The light was automated in 1973 and downgraded to a minor light. Its characteristic was changed to a flashing white light every 6 seconds. The stations sound signal and radio beacon were also discontinued. Original Fresnel lens moved to the Sheldon Museum and Cultural Center in Haines in 1978, replaced with solar powered 250 MM optic.
C. Development Character
The last of twelve manned lighthouses established by the United States Board of Light-Houses in Alaska, Eldred Rock Light Station has long served as an important aid to marine navigation. Never rebuilt, the lighthouse is also the last octagonal structure of its kind remaining in Alaska. Considering its importance in Alaska commerce and transportation, as well as its exceptional architectural features, the Eldred Rock lighthouse was entered on the National Register of Historic Places in 1975.
In view of Skagway’s commercial importance, the United States Board of Light-Houses established four manned lighthouses in Lynn Canal between the years 1902 and 1906. This was nearly half the number of light stations ever located in Southeast Alaska in the 1900’s. Commissioned in 1906, Eldred Rock Light Station was the last lighthouse constructed in Lynn Canal; the second station in Alaska with light and fog-signal apparatus and keepers’ quarters combined in a single structure; and the first lighthouse in Alaska constructed with concrete.
Unlike earlier lighthouses in Alaska, Eldred Rock was never rebuilt or temporarily abandoned. The station provided invaluable service as an aid to marine navigation to cargo ships and military transports sailing either to Skagway or to Haines, where Fort William H. Seward (Chilkoot Barracks) was located. Due to post-war inflation and technological advances, Eldred Rock Light Station was unmanned and down-graded to a minor light in 1973.
D. Historical Chronology
1905 Lighthouse Board adopted plans for a light and fog signal station in May. Construction by hired labor of Lighthouse, Boathouse, and Tramway begins and was due to be placed in operation in November before winter storms.
1906 Due to inclement weather slowing construction, station was not completed and lighted till June 1, 1906.
1920-1930 Several wooden, rectangular, one-story buildings were constructed mid-distance between the lighthouse and boathouse. One or two of these buildings were destroyed and removed, but two remained and eventually becoming a Carpenter Shop and Paint Locker.
1939 Radio Beacon/Radio Telephone installed.
1966 Helicopter pad was built on northern end of island.
1973 May 30, light converted from DCB-36 rotating beacon to new 250 mm lantern in order to prepare to convert the light to unmanned operation. Radiobeacon and sound signal also discontinued.
1973 July 20, Local Notice to Mariners reports light is permanently unmanned, the 250 mm lantern was powered by primary batteries. Light Downgraded to a Minor Light, characteristic changed to a flashing white light every 6 sec.
1975 Dec 30, Eldred Rock Lighthouse was entered on the National Register of Historic Places and therefore subject to Dept. of Interior Standards of Rehabilitation.
1978 Original Fresnel lens moved to the Sheldon Museum and Cultural Center in Haines.
1983 Work order to USCGC PLANETREE to conduct some work on lighthouse which included removing excess materials, painting, installing lexan covers over existing windows, and putting new markings on helipad.
1988 Nov 20, the navigational light was converted to solar power.
1990 Lease authorized to NWS to install a weather station; Lease authorized to FAA to install weather station-date unknown
1996 Programmatic Memorandum of Agreement (PMOA) with SHPO regarding CG outgranting of Historic Lighthouses, stating the CG is obligated to maintain and preserve historic properties
1997 October, Phase 1 Environmental Site Assessment prepared by USCG
2000 Natl Lighthouse Preservation Act (NLHPA)
2004 June, First Notice of Availability (NOA) issued, Eldred Rock pulled off the list in August due to land conveyance difficulties with the NFS
2004 June, USCG Phase III Site Investigation indicates asbestos
2005, June-July, USCG Maintenance work; repairing water tank and boathouse, and painting
2006 July, land underlying Eldred Rock transferred to CG
2006 Another Environmental Assessment completed by CG
2012 June 25, NOA issued for Eldred Rock
2013 ADEC demanded hazmat clean up before Eldred Rock could be made available.
2015 Feb, solar panel broke off in high winds, damaging cupola doors/windows and destroying historic railing.
2016 May 20, 250 mm lantern replaced by VLB-44 LED lantern.
2019 Oct 28, USCG conducts a joint inspection with the Eldred Rock Lighthouse Preservation Association in preparation for a lease agreement
2020 March 1, USCG CEU Oakland and ERLPA Executive Director sign a 5-year term lease agreement, with the option to renew for three more 5 year terms.
E. Subsequent Use of Eldred Rock Light Station
Eldred Rock Lightstation has operated as an aid to navigation nearly continuously for almost 115 years. Although the sound signal was silenced in 1973 when the station was automated, several upgrades to the light have occurred over the years. Furthermore, several agencies use Eldred Rock to report weather and seismic readings, as its’ location is situated in an important transportation passage of Northern Lynn Canal. As of the date of this report, the National Weather Service (NWS), the Federal Aviation Administration (FAA), the Marine Exchange of Alaska (MXAK), and USGS/NOAA all have equipment on the island.
After automation in 1973, the Coast Guard no longer used the lighthouse for any other purpose than a tower for its Aid to Navigation, which consists simply of a solar panel, battery box, and eventually a LED light affixed to a metal beam inside the cupola. The rooms and outbuildings were gutted of all equipment and property with the exception of radiators and miniblinds, a few of overhead lights, some rusted out racks, and a carpenter shop full of old wood. The other things left behind was an abundance of hazardous materials in the form of asbestos, lead-based paint, and diesel in the soil.
In 1997 the U.S. Coast Guard offered a number of light stations for lease to non-profit organizations for the purpose of maintaining and preserving the historic building and structures. The Eldred Rock subcommittee of the Sheldon Museum and Cultural Center of Haines, AK submitted a letter of interest. Some site inspections and environmental assessments were completed in the following years as well as the National Historic Lighthouse Preservation Act was passed in 2000. Eldred Rock, however, encountered land conveyance issues because the island was withing the Tongass National Forest. In 2006 the property was removed from the USFS and transferred to the USCG along with Guard Island, Mary Island, and portions of Hinchinbrook. ADEC still did not accept that the property be available due to still unmitigated environmental conditions.
For a short history of the tragic shipwreck that lead to the building of the Eldred Rock Lighthouse, follow this link:http://lighthousefriends.com/light.asp?ID=828
For an even longer history of the SS Clara Nevada following this link: https://www.maritimeheritage.org/ships/SS-Clara-Nevada.html
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